A Forgotten Empire: Vijayanagar

by Robert Sewell

In preperation for my Hampi visit I decided to read a historical account of the Vijayanagar empire. My last history class was seven years ago, so this was a new first lesson.

A Forgotten Empire: Vijayanagar

I was excited after reading the introduction. The city seemed grand and rich in culture but I became uninterested as the book became a chronological documentation from one war to the next. I enjoyed the few breaks that were taken to talk about the architecture and the lives of the common people and wished there were more. The academic tone didn’t bother me and was I amazed when the author himself was doubtful about the certainty of some facts. He had strung together centuries of history by interpreting the chronicles of Fernão Nunes and Abd-al-Razzāq, and the scriptures that were being discovered during the time. He was clear in his distinction between facts and speculations. In contrast, Domingo Paes’ observations were direct, he wrote of what he was shown by the King, and what he was told by his fellows. He even logged details like the prices of common fruits and vegetables. It read like an out of date WikiVoyage entry.
Reading this book made me wonder about the accuracy of my school books. Or of any history books. I can never be sure if what is being written is fact, or worse, if its tainted by personal beliefs and propaganda. Amber consoled my skepticism and suggested I read What is History? by E.H. Carr. More books on my reading list, answers to all questions of life soon!

Chasing the Moon


I remember seeing the moon set into the sea once. It happened during one of the many long bus journeys — Mumbai to Bangalore to Mangalore to Goa. I wasn’t sleeping well and woke for a minute because of a speed breaker and saw it for a second before it was hidden by a hill.

Since then I have wondered if it actually happened. It reminded me of the drunken night in college spent laughing at the fact that no one knew where the moon rises from. If only we had paid attention in school.
A bit of research revealed its relation to the lunar phase. A full moon will rise and set like the sun and a no moon will do the exact opposite. It becomes obvious after thinking about it for a while (brain cell killing alcohol!). Thus, a moon set can only happen on the west coast, on a full moon night, when there are no clouds and the sun doesn’t rise before the moon sets.

My next chance to see this is on 5th January. Its a full moon and its going to set at 5:19AM a full 2 hours before the sun rises. The monsoons are long over so I can hope to have a clear sky. The picture on the left is from the last full moon, the sun flushed the moon before it could actually set. I’d like to believe that I still have some brain cells left and what I saw was real.

The Hidden Trail

I recently had to go to Lower Parel to meet a friend. I had never travelled in the Local and decided it would be a good idea for this trip. When I reached the station I asked a kind man for directions to the mall I had to reach and he pointed to a small opening in the railing of the platform. I looked at him a bit bewildered, but as I was a early anyway I decided to check it out. What that tiny opening lead to was one of the most unbelievable roads I’ve ever seen in a city. I wen’t back again to click some photos and to be sure if it really exists.


I asked quite a lot of locals if they’ve been on this road and they hadn’t. But one guy did tell me there is something similar near Goregaon (must check that out too). If you’re in Mumbai, I say you should go check it out. I’ve made a small map to help with the directions.